Sunday 20 April 2014

Day 12: 51km west of Balladonia - Esperance (488km, 8267km total)



I forgot to mention a few things about yesterday’s ride – more strange sights along the Nullarbor. The guy I saw pushing the cart on my way out last week, well I saw his cart pulled up at Nullarbor Roadhouse. No sign of the crazy dude though. A touring cyclist – crazy. At two places, fellas pedalling recumbent bicycles enclosed in streamlined fairings, one pink the other lime green. Yup, crazies.

I saw a biker pulled over on the side of the road ahead so stopped to check he was OK. He was riding some kind of Yamaha cruiser, I don’t know them well enough to know which one. By his accent I guess he was German, but what kind of German tours on anything but a BMW? He told me he had an oil warning light on so he was just topping up with oil. This guy is miles away from anywhere and doesn’t seem that bothered by an oil light. He tells me he’s riding around Australia, started at Sydney, been through Melbourne and was making his way to Perth.  I leave him to it and I see him again at the next roadhouse where I’m getting something to eat. He wasted no time in getting to know two girls travelling in a combi van in the opposite direction – he enlisted one to sit on his bike to keep it upright while he put even more oil into it! I hope he makes it – I didn’t see him again.

A few hours down the road, again I see a biker pulled over on the other side of the road so I stop to check on him too. A rough looking DRZ400 with long range fuel tank and a milk crate tied to the back as a top box. Standing beside it is an old Japanese guy eating something I couldn't identify. He told me he’s biking around Australia. He started in Sydney, had travelled around the top end and was making his way east back to Sydney. Of these two guys making it all the way around, my money’s on the DRZ!

A bit of a circus to pitch the tent but ready for supper
Back to my overnight camp – first time I’ve ever bush camped. I’d ridden down a dirt track that came off a rest stop that was empty when I came across it, but a couple of hours after dark a truck must have pulled up in it and left his engine idling for about an hour. I should have gone further down the track out of earshot. Woke up a few times with my old bones finding the camping matt a bit hard. Still, I got a fair bit of sleep and was woken up by the dawn chorus. I planned to get breakfast in Norseman about an hour & half away so get packed quickly and get going. It turns out that I’d done such a good job of packing all the camping gear into the drybag back at home that I couldn’t fit it all back in now! I have to leave the tent out of the drybag and strap it onto the bike separately. I think I gave the truck driver in the rest stop a bit of a scare when I emerged from the track fully loaded, rode past him and onto the highway. 

Epic selfie fail


Nothing remarkable on the way to Norseman but as it marks the end of the Eyre Highway I was glad to see it. Breakfast, organise some accommodation in Esperance for the night and hit the road. I take in Cape Le Grand on the way – fabulous white beaches edging some bloody cold ocean! 

Esperance is busy – looks like half of this half of WA has come here for the Easter weekend. The camp sites and caravan parks are busting at the seams. Out to get some dinner early evening and the hotels are already heaving. I chatted to a guy who had spent 10 hours driving here with his family, towing a camper trailer who was here for a week. The irony was that he lives in Busselton, a favourite Easter destination for people from Perth!

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